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| (Left to right) Traditional white wedding gown: Panache // Cultural fusion gown: Taniya Toor // Traditional Lengha: Taniya Toor. Jewellery: Singhaar // Photography: Afzal of Impressions // Hair and make-up: Kanval of Impressions // Venue: Malmaison Hotel Glasgow |
As the balance sways from purely traditional towards an amalgamation of conventions, cultures and fashion trends, Britain’s fashion industry is singing to the demands of an increasingly hybrid culture with trends crossing traditional boundaries.
Leicester-based designer Arinder Bhullar, who specialises in the design and production of high-class couture including a full bridal collection, has observed a huge crossover in the bridal market with more non Asian brides ordering from their collection.
“These brides want something different than the usual white gown,” she says, “different in the terms of embroideries and cuts. Asian embellishments tend to have a little more shine – shiny thread work, diamante crystals and sequins are added to our outfits.” She has even, she declares, created red wedding outfits for non Asian brides – red being the traditional
Asian wedding colour.
Similarly, Asian brides are changing their perspective of the ‘traditional’ outfit, often seeking something in between that puffy white cupcake-style dress and a vividly coloured brocade. “This is where I try to fuse the two together – an Asian bridal outfit with all the trimmings but with a westernized cut,” Arinder explains. “This concept is very much in fashion now. The trend is big Asian outfits with lots of embellishments.”
Indeed, the challenge to produce an exciting fusion between East and West has become a rich and thriving area for designers to explore and offers an extensive choice for would-be brides. Mani Kohli, designer of the sought-after Khubsoorat Collection, is strongly aware of the demand of a generation that is seeking a contemporary alternative to the traditional ethnic look – a demand that has increased over the past couple of years. Mani says, “I have been designing since 1983 and never have I seen such a strong presence of the Western “white bride” influence as I have in the past two to three years.” This, she believes, is a reflection of “the Asian living in the UK.”
She clarifies, “It is the arrival of the British Asian, who wants to be recognised for their very formative stand in the British pattern of life and need the acceptance. Asians are now in the third generation and have a lifestyle to boast – hence, the birth of the fusion bridal attire in the Khubsoorat Collection.”
On the other hand, the rise of films such as ‘Bend It Like Beckham’ (which Mani designed for) and Bollywood successes have helped to develop a love for Bollywood fashion in the West. As hits such as “Slumdog Millionaire” and the much-hyped “My Name is Khan” are embraced by the UK Box Office, Bollywood fashion has been enthusiastically adopted by viewers. Mani states, “‘Bend It Like Beckham’ gave Asian fashion the approval and recognition that Asian clothes so deserve. The fact that the film was a tremendous hit only went to prove that the mainstream was always willing to embrace a new look.”
Bollywood fashion has indeed been adopted by the West – Asian styles are appearing in more designs by non Asian designers and this is gradually extending to the Glasgow area.
Glasgow-based Shirley Sampson, Creative Director at Velvet Tigers, will be exhibiting her alternative designs of exquisite corsetry and clothing at the Occasions Scottish Asian Wedding Show including some with an Asian influence. She says, “I shall certainly be showing a mixture of my ‘normal’ (i.e. ‘alternative’) Velvet Tigers designs, along with some which are definitely intended to be a fusion of eastern and western styles. I hope some of them will appeal to all those women who want to look beautiful and elegant – but differently!”
Shirley has noticed a trend towards Asian fashion generally such as “the wearing of jeans or trousers under a skirt or a dress” and the popularity of “baggy ‘peg’ pants, large shawl-type scarves, wraps and pashminas. Meanwhile, machines can now produce beautiful, detailed embroidery and beading in many styles – features which have long been popular in Asia.”
She hopes that this growing trend is not just a superficial fad but indicates changes in culture. “Cross-cultural clothing is, I hope, becoming more popular because – despite the obvious difficulties – in practice, we are all becoming more familiar and relaxed with each other. This means we’re no longer as protective of our ‘traditional’ identities and are willing to try out each others’ styles.
“After all,” she adds, “when have women not loved dressing up in new things!”
Asha Ginda, an Asian Fashion Consultant based in Glasgow, agrees that the demand is there and that the western community is “eager to know” about Asian fashion as well as British Asians who want something “that matches their values. They want to bring the two cultures together through fabric and designs”.
However, she feels that there is still a partition: lack of knowledge. As founder of Lemonstyle, she is striving to overcome the stumbling block by educating a wider audience about Asian fashion. “I educate about what it is and what to ask for,” she says, “and offer support because people don’t have the knowledge. They need help purchasing such items.”
As well as offering her services as a wedding stylist, the educational aspect of the business sees Asha organizing workshops in Asian fashion at local secondary schools and hosting various classes such as “The Art of Sari Draping” which are proving popular.
The demand is evidently there and it seems that, while many wedding traditions have an imprint of personality and values upon them, the possibility of finding a wedding outfit to truly maximise a bride’s identity is now a strong reality. Rather than the bride being a victim to fashion, fashion is flowing to the desires, characteristics and values of the customer.
“I need to understand the customer and their wants and dreams to materialise in the ensembles,” Mani Kohli explains of the wedding outfit design process at Khubsoorat. “Eventually the colour, the fabric, the embellishment, the design and the fitting speaks volumes and the picture reflects the happy couple in their picture albums to boast to the next in line.”
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